Visitors to Florence don’t usually see its true architectural
legacy as they wander the cobbled streets. That’s because so much of the
city’s artistry and opulence remain discrete; tucked-away like
long-held secrets behind unadorned walls of stucco and stone. Even a
treasure like the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze blends so faultlessly with
adjacent structures that you might walk right past without even noticing
it. Only upon entering the soaring frescoed courtyard do you realize
you’ve arrived somewhere absolutely extraordinary.
Dating to the fifteenth century as the Palazzo della Gherardesca, the
historic portion of this visually stunning property includes a 116-room
palazzo, its surrounding 11-acre landscaped garden, and a
sixteenth century convent now transformed into a 36-room guesthouse and
meeting space. Opened in 2008 after seven years and untold millions in
restoration, the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze could rival any small museum
in its abundance of original frescoes, bas-reliefs, oil paintings,
antiquities, and exquisite architectural details.
A short stroll through the hotel and grounds reveals a seamless
intermingling of art history and modern luxury that is so characteristic
of this hotel group’s collaboration with designer extraordinaire,
Pierre-Yves Rochon. Throughout, one sees bountiful use of luxuriant
materials and fresh flowers. Fabrics are lush, seating plush, colors
lustrous, and spaces vaulted and vast. Yet, amidst all the grandeur, a
sense of comfort and warmth prevails. Multi-lingual staff is relaxed and
friendly. In the dining room, servers seem to read minds with uncanny
accuracy. Savvy concierges faithfully curate guests’ most idiosyncratic
wishes. And, as at all Four Seasons properties I’ve stayed, thoughtful
amenities and state of the art technologies are impeccably woven into
the mix.
The eleven sumptuous suite styles would impress even a Medici. Many
are resplendent with gem-toned upholstery, precious antiques, glistening
Murano glass chandeliers, tall arched windows, and original frescoes
harkening to a period when the Medicis actually
did own Palazzo
della Gherardesca. Bathrooms are scaled for giants, often with
decadently deep, freestanding tubs beneath crystal chandeliers. Simply
touring these suites left me with a raging case of bath envy from which I
may never recover.
Of course, the “regular” bathrooms are nothing short of fabulous
either, thanks to their roomy dimensions and divine cabinetry. And even
the smallest guestrooms are oversized (approximately 39 m2), decorated
in gracefully traditional motifs. Neutral colors accented by soft shades
of yellow or green are a perfect compliment to most rooms’ views of the
verdant botanical gardens. And, oh, such gardens they are! This
peaceful sweet-scented oasis, which doubles as an open-air gallery,
would be reason enough to stay here if there weren’t already dozens
more. Sculptures by renowned contemporary artists are placed along the
park’s winding paths amidst fountains, ponds, follies, and an assortment
of rare vegetation. I found myself returning often to the gardens even
in the dead of winter, mesmerized by the array of painstakingly chosen,
emotionally rich works of art.
Almost hidden among towering trees are the property’s thoroughly
modern additions: an outdoor pool and terrace restaurant (closed during
winter), the award-winning two-story spa, and the exceptionally
well-outfitted, multi-level fitness center which, I regret to say, I
didn’t utilize often enough. (I was in
Florence, after all.)
The Four Seasons hotel group is dedicated to designing unique custom
guest experiences, and Florence is an ideal place to sample some of
their best ideas. For couples with romance in mind, intimate dinners can
be arranged at two of the palazzo’s most breathtaking spots: the gilded
and frescoed former chapel, and the itty bitty roof terrace with
staggering 360-degree views of the city, where you’re sure to have a
singular “oh my!” moment. For families with young children, there are
“kids visits” to museums and Pinocchio Park. And, especially for Dan
Brown fans, the hotel has created an “Inferno Tour.” As if following in
Professor Robert Langdon’s footsteps, guests view the Renaissance art
and architecture central to “Inferno’s” mystery.
Even “everyday” experiences at this hotel are distinctive. If private
dining isn’t to your taste, the gorgeous Il Palagio restaurant will
easily feed cravings for romantic elegance. Chef Vito Mollica’s fresh
artisanal cuisine has earned Il Palagio a place among the surprisingly
small group of Florentine restaurants to attain a Michelin star. Just as
importantly, his menu promises to dazzle even the most discerning of
locavores.
On the casual side, the Atrium Bar is your airy, all-day meeting
place for light bites, cocktails, or afternoon tea. At night, I highly
recommend a plate of pasta, a glass of Tuscan wine, and a double serving
of glamorous people watching, as the Atrium is a hot spot among
fashionable Florentines, too.
Four Seasons Hotel Firenze is located slightly outside the museum
cluster in a charming residential section that offers welcome relief
from tourist-clogged streets. Yet, you’re just a brisk 10-minute walk to
Il Duomo. And when your soles demand a break from the cobblestones, a
dedicated hotel shuttle will transport you in comfort, morning to
evening.
Source: Joy Davidson
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